Now that the dust has settled, let’s discuss Watches and Wonders (W&W). The show has picked up steam, there is more coverage and hype behind it. To me, the releases, globally, were at the same level as last year. Of course, there is always someone that will be disappointed or angry for something. That should always be expected. Is the problem that the watch enthusiast is becoming callused or jaded? These and other points I would like to discuss in the following sentences. As an FYI, this can be a very image heavy article, most of the images have been moved to the end.
The public tends to want more every time. Think of it as bodybuilding, starting with natural athletes and then moving to athletes using steroids. Steroids made people see the unusual on stage, bodies that are out of the norm, but at the end of the day, unsustainable and unhealthy. At the show, there were a few releases dismissed because they were more of “the same”. I mean, we need to remember that these items are really not a need, but a luxury. Do we want the watch world to move in the steroids direction? If it does, what would it mean for the complication of pieces, the sizes, the pricing?
Two other points I have seen, repeatedly, within the watch community are: They love the new IWC Ingenieur but don’t like the price; the second, “the new Rolex dials are ridiculous”. Let’s begin with the Ingenieur pricing. The real price bracket comparison should be among the following models: IWC Ingenieur ($11,700), Girard Perregaux ($14,300), Zenith Defy Skyline ($9,000), Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 ($14,100). I do not believe that IWC is targeting AP or Patek. I do believe that they know what they have, one of Gerald Genta’s best designs, and before they can move upscale, if they do, they need to tackle this bracket first. You can check the new IWC collection HERE.
Now, Rolex. I actually enjoyed Rolex. People always complain that Rolex doesn’t do anything innovative, that the changes are too subtle. Well, now that they do something radical, everybody looses their minds *Insert Joker meme here*. If the emotion Day Date were to be available, I would not mind using my kids’ college fund, and picking one up. The rest of the releases are very inline with what Rolex can do, which is always appreciated. You can check the full Rolex Lineup for W&W HERE.
I want to give a final and special shoutout to Tudor, Tag Heuer, and Zenith. Some fun watches came out of these brands. The Tudor Black Bay 54, I appreciate because of its subtleness. I have always liked Tudor Black Bay (BB) line but never enough to want one. The new BB 54 might have changed that. With a T-fit clasp, Chronometer certified and with a size and subtlety that makes it fly under the radar, this one won for me. Among the other releases were a refreshed Black Bay with Burgundy bezel, T-fit clasp and Metas certified. Next was the opaline dial GMT, the fixed bezel Black Bay line, with a great jubilee bracelet and T-fit clasp. At the end, the Tudor Royal, that nobody has talked about. This one might need some attention from me in the near future. Finally, Tudor also highlighted their manufacturing site, which shouldn’t be taken as a small feat. You can check the rest of the Tudor W&W lineup HERE.
Zenith brought a set of Pilot watches are great looking and very intriguing. Another one worth a visit to the boutique. The Defy Skyline, coming in many sizes and colors, to me is one of the direct competitors for the IWC Ingenieur. Finally the Defy Revival, this one… I need to do some research on it. The renders don’t inspire anything in me. A watch that has to be seen in the metal, apparently. The new releases were great but overall, not my style. My life goal remains a Chronomaster. If you would like more information from Zenith, you can check their new releases HERE.
Last but not least, Tag Heuer has been trying to seduce for the past couple of years. With the introduction of the Carrera Chrono, I might have fallen. I have not been as excited for a Tag Heuer release since… EVER. I mean, the old Carrera line was nice but now the Carrera Date addition, in those cool colors. Those are definitely cool. Then you have all the diamond work they did with the Carrera Plasma Diamant and the Carrera Plasma Diamant Chronograph Tourbillon (I got tired just typing that). I know, I know, you like real diamonds blah blah. Finally, the Aquaracer in Gold, yellow and rose, plus the two tone versions. Honestly, I have never been so excited to go to the Tag Heuer boutique. You can check the Tag Heuer novelties HERE.
I would like to thank all the brands for providing the photos used here. Now, what are your thoughts on the releases from W&W? Let me know on the comments below. Thanks for stopping by.
DL
